Though they sound like the last thing you’d want to include in your skin care routine, acids are an integral part of any well-rounded ritual — working to swiftly revitalise skin (when they’re used with appropriate caution).
Designed to be introduced gradually, avoid the temptation to fast-track results… it takes time for your skin to acclimatise and if you go too strong too soon, you’re risking sensitivity and redness. However, by introducing acids in a careful and considered way, you’ll recover your radiance, stat.
Thanks to brands like Alpha-H, Pixi and The Ordinary, fears have been assuaged and beauty consumers have become a lot more receptive to the thought of introducing acids to their skin care rituals. Working wonders, the right acid can tackle a host of common beauty bugbears — from scarring and blemishes to pigmentation, dullness, loss of elasticity and dehydration… the list of benefits is loooong.
But as we mentioned earlier, don’t overdo it! Acids can cause redness, dryness and irritation when applied too frequently, so start off using an acid-based product on one or two nights a week (always at nighttime), and make sure you’re especially rigorous with your sunscreen the following morning as acids increase your skin’s sun sensitivity.
You should see an immediate improvement in your skin’s tone, texture and luminosity (we love rapid results). So, on that note, discover the acids to have on rotation…
AHAs
Like a stint in the gym for your skin, AHAs (short for alpha-hydroxy acids) work by dissolving the ‘glue’ that binds dulling dead cells and debris that comprise skin’s uppermost, radiance-compromising layer: the ‘stratum corneum’. Although it has protective properties, we could all use a regular ‘refresh’ and my chemically shifting this ultra-thin film, you bring new, healthy cells to the surface — smoothing skin’s texture to boost its light-scattering properties (hence, GLOW).
You’ll probably feel a slight tingle whenever you use AHAs (and we mean ‘tingle’ — if your skin feels hot or like it’s burning then you need to rinse the product straight away): this is caused by the shift in your skin’s pH level as acids reduce it from 5.5 to somewhere around 3, which triggers your cells to repair and renew, resulting in an enviable, post-facial radiance.
BHAs
Beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) work in a similar way to their AHA cousins, but penetrate more deeply where they ‘excavate’ embedded dirt and grime to keep pores clear (and blemishes at bay). Better suited to those with oilier, congested skin types who’re susceptible to breakouts, BHAs are mostly found in ‘clarifying’ formulas, so look for them in ranges aimed at calming, balancing and reassuring acne-prone complexions.
Here are the three AHAs/BHAs you’re probably the most familiar with:
1. Glycolic acid
Derived from sugar cane, glycolic acid is the Tesla of the AHA arena… One of the most effective acids on the market, this is (molecularly!) the smallest of the ‘alphas’, making its ability to penetrate the skin unparalleled. In short, it gets the job done, which is why it’s the star ingredient in Alpha-H’s iconic night treatment — the best-loved Liquid Gold Exfoliating Treatment with 5% Glycolic Acid — the product that first pioneered its use in skin care.