Archive for the ‘Ask the experts’ Category

If you want an easy anti-wrinkle fix, it’s time take a tip from Sleeping Beauty and get yourself a good night’s slumber. Responsible for the secretion of anti-ageing growth hormones and the preservation of proteins, beauty sleep allows the body to rebuild tissue and repair the day-to-day damage caused by factors such as stress and sun. It’s the simplest route to skin that is both radiant and revitalised. We can’t think of a better reason to hop right into bed. Well, maybe one.

Boost your chance of a blissful slumber with these sleep-inducing tips from relaxation guru and Cult Beauty expert and author of celebrity favourite anti-exhaustion guide called SPENT, Dr Frank Lipman.

DO…

1. Create a regular routine. Getting up and going to bed around the same time, even on weekends, is the most important thing you can do to establish good sleep habits. Waking and sleeping at set times reinforces a consistent sleep rhythm and reminds the brain when to release sleep and wake hormones, and more importantly, when not to.

2. Keep the room cool. A sleeping temperature of 16-18°c is best for most people, even in the dead of winter. Our bodies need time to produce enough sleep neurotransmitters to allow you to sleep, and lowering ambient temperature sends a feedback signal to the brain’s sleep centre that it is night time, and that it needs to release more sleep hormones.

3. Don’t use the bedroom for anything but sleep and sex. Like Pavlov’s dogs, we can unwittingly condition ourselves to not be able to sleep in the bedroom. If you find you can’t fall asleep within 45 minutes, get up and out of the bedroom. Read a book or do some other calming activity for another 1 – 1 ½ hours before trying to sleep again. Staying in bed only causes stress over not sleeping.

4. Avoid before-bed snacks, particularly grains and sugars. This will raise blood sugar and inhibit sleep. Later, when blood sugar drops too low you might wake up and be unable to fall back asleep.

5. Get off sleeping pills. Sleeping pills can actually make insomnia worse, not better. Since these pills are addictive, and higher mortality rates are associated with chronic sleeping pill use, don’t take them. Your doctor can help you design a regimen to wean yourself of them.

It might seem like a quick-fix, but DON’T…

Use the weekend to make up for lost sleep. This harms the body clock’s ability to regulate healthy sleep patterns. Our bodies crave regularity and need a consistent sleep schedule.

or

Drink alcohol to fall asleep. Although it has an initial sleep inducing effect, when broken down by the body, alcohol can lighten sleep and cause frequent and early awakening. It also blocks the brain’s oxygen sensors, cutting oxygen and complicating sleep conditions, particularly sleep apnea.

In her fortnightly column Cult Beauty expert and celebrated make up artist Valentine Alexander shares her insider tips from the front line of French beauty exclusively with Cult Beauty readers.

My favourite Bio (French slang for organic) skincare range sold in the Parapharmacies here is Sanoflore. It’s certified by Ecocert, made in France and has been doing so well it was recently bought out by L’Oreal. My favourite product from this line is the Anti-ageing Elixir with Lemon Balm essential oil from Vercors, a powerful natural Antioxidant. Renowned for its therapeutic virtues, Lemon Balm, known for a long time as the “herb of longevity” has a reputation dating back centuries. This Elixir erases wrinkles and fine lines brilliantly. The skin is rejuvenated, radiant, and healthy. I use this Elixir daily before makeup and as a night cream. This is my new miracle cream. valentine alexander

This is the best tutorial I have found around how to create this signature look of Gisele’s, as its star Johnny Lavoy terms it, Soft & Sexy Victoria’s Secret Supermodel Waves.

A really quick technique to instantly inject some sexiness, youth and movement into your look. Spray wax is definitely something to use sparingly so that you don’t end up straying into the whelms of the new Beauty Grunge look, appearing all over the A/W 2010-11 New York Catwalks at the moment…more on that later.

If you have fine hair use a little Universal Body Mousse by Davines before curling to hold the style better, then Bumble & Bumble Surf Spray is a perfect product to mess them up, creating that just-came-back-from-playing-volleyball-on-the-beach-all-day, where’s-my-Caipirinha look.

alexia inge

I’m 27-years-old and normally have quite dry skin. All through my teens my skin was fine; the odd spot but nothing major. However, about four years ago I started to get spots on my cheeks, at my hairline, between my eyebrows, and above my nose. They always take about 10 days to come to the surface, then about two to three weeks to heal. They then scar for six months to a year and are often sore. I don’t wear foundation, only a little concealer on the spots themselves. I use basic moisturiser during the day and some bio oil at night to try to minimise the scarring. On the whole my skin is dry and a little sensitive. Are there any products you can recommend?

Cult Beauty expert Sarah Chapman says:

“My first question would be to ask if you have recently changed your hair care as this can irritate the skin around the hairline. It is also possible that the skin is changing due to hormones, lifestyle or stress. I would suggest addressing many elements:

First of all – diet. Make sure you get a good balanced diet. Supplement it with flaxseed to help the dryness and inflammation, as well daily time release Vitamin C and zinc to help healing. I would recommend trying out the Lamberts range.

Next, always remember not to pick as this will scar and mark the skin. As healing is slow, I would recommend massaging the face at home to stimulate the blood flow and aid drainage. Your skin seems to be sluggish, tired, and in need of pepping up, so, if you can, I would also suggest a few facials to bring it to life.

I would change your cleansing routine to incorporate an oil cleanser (e.g. Skinesis Ultimate Cleanse, Neal’s Yard Organic Wild Rose Beauty Balm, Omorovicza Thermal Cleansing Balm). Massage this thoroughly into the skin to help dissolve pore blockages, as well as stimulate circulation and lymph drainage. This will cleanse effectively without drying your skin, which can also lead to break outs.

It is also extremely important to exfoliate. This lifts off the dry cells which can sit on the surface and block the pathway for sebum to pass out of the pores. This can lead to spots, so we must therefore address the dryness with nourishment and gentle exfoliation. For gentle exfoliation options I like Dermalogica Microfoliant or Darphin Aroma Peel. I would also suggest using a high strength Vitamin A product to help balance the skin, while aiding healing at the same time. We have had some great results on skin that marks and is unbalanced with Skinesis Dynamic Defence Concentrate.”

Although Bio Oil is great stuff, we would question whether this is helping your issues. A healing serum would probably have a better effect because when your skin is dry it usually needs more help than a moisturiser alone can provide. SoPhyto gets the most amazing feedback from our customers for it’s blemish clearing abilities, especially the Polyphenol Drops serum. pH Advantage also do a High Potency Vitamin C Serum and Glycolic Exfoliating Moisturiser, which are packed with everything you need to clear your skin. Finally,  Oxygen Plasma Potion from Ling Skin Care was designed to heal scarring from severe burns suffered in combat (Cameron Diaz and Agyness Deyn use it to keep their spots in check).

Once you have sorted out the big issues,  Australian Bodycare Facial Wash and On the Spot Stick are extremely effective and great value as an ongoing maintenance routine.

If you have a beauty problem you need help with please email experts@cultbeauty.co.uk.

My winter coat is replete, all remnants of any colour from Autumn has left my skin leaving me with a pallor not that far removed from a plucked chicken. Having very light blond hair was making me look terribly washed out and dare I say it, OLD! So I decided to consult Cult Beauty hair expert Paul Edmonds.

Paul suggested adding some more apricot hues to my ashy blond hair to tone down the blues which were washing out my complexion. I was a little worried about dyeing my hair darker, but the results really warmed my whole countenance.

I have noticed Madonna has been doing a similar thing for a little while now, as have Diane Kruger and Sarah Jessica Parker and it really works to soften their strong features, with an instant anti-ageing effect.

I fully plan to go back to my original ashy blond in the summer when a little browner, but for right now the winter coat is staying. alexia inge

A half head of highlights at Paul Edmonds London – prices ranging from £85 for a Junior Technician and £150 for an Artistic Director

Paul Edmonds Salon,217 Brompton Road, London, SW3 2EJ.  0844 770 9410. www.pauledmonds.com

As a teenager I had greasy hair, but it’s normally shiny and healthy looking. However, recently I have found that my roots are greasy and the ends can be dry. I’m struggling to get a shampoo that doesn’t seem to make it worse. At the moment I’m using a clarifying shampoo, which is okay but not really working. Can you suggest any alternatives?

Cult Beauty expert James Corbett says:

“What causes some people to produce more sebum than others is not always known and the reasons for the problem may vary among individuals. The solution is largely trial and error, finding what works for you.

Oily hair can be an inherited condition, but if you feel this is a recent change then look to your hormones. The regularity of your cycle and birth control pills can change the body’s natural balance and cause the sebaceous glands to overact. In this case consult a doctor.

Have you changed your diet? I strongly believe diet can play a strong role in hair condition. If you fill your body with high fat foods (or too much dairy) low in nutrition and protein, it will come out in your hair. Of course, this is over a period of time and I’m not saying that if you splurge on a cheeseburger and fries one night you will wake up with oily hair. It’s a lifestyle thing, and you should consult a dietitian if you want to learn more.

Also consider if you have been more stressed than usual. (Who isn’t in this economy?) Stress boost bloodstream levels of androgen, a hormone that activates the sebaceous glands. So take a yoga class, a guided meditation class, or whatever you find makes you relax.

Now we have determined the general causes, let’s discuss ways to combat the problem. Try not to run the fingers/ hands through the hair, and avoid brushing as much as possible. The more you stimulate the scalp the more oils it will produce.

The matter of how often to shampoo is a very split topic. I recommend trying each method for a while to see, which works best for you. Some say that the more you shampoo the more you will remove oil. This seems logical but some believe that this stimulates the oil glands to produce more and exacerbates the problem. You could try letting your hair rest to stop the oil glands producing more, but if you go for this method you have to commit to it and give it a good try. I would say at least a month. Try washing every other day and the hair glands may regulate, but it doesn’t happen overnight.

The type of shampoo you use can help as well. Clarifying shampoos are a good option, but make sure they don’t contain harsh ingredients like Sodium Lauryl Sulphate. Harsher shampoos may cause your glands to produce more oils so don’t think chemicals are the answer! Look for ingredients like Sage, Rosemary, Peppermint, and Zinc. I personally love Philip B products: Peppermint and Avocado Shampoo and the Anti Flake Shampoo for oily hair (which also contains Zinc). When using treatment shampoos like this, let them sit for 3-5 minutes, make sure to work through from root to tip, and rinse very well.”

I also do oil treatments with these oils applied to the scalp to regulate the glands.”

Philip B hair care products are available from John Lewis stores nationwide.

Perfect the art of make up with the help of Cult Beauty expert and celebrated make up artist Valentine Alexander. In her new fortnightly column Valentine shares her essential beauty tips exclusively with Cult Beauty readers.

“Why don’t you…try the new cult cream from Giorgio Armani, OMC3? Containing a high level of hyaluronic acid, it magically regenerates skin tone and wrinkles disappear almost immediately. Skin is left luminous, plumped, and glowing. I use it as a brilliant under make up base and as a night cream as well. My skin has never been better in the morning.

Follow with the Armani prize winning skin perfector, Face Fabric, mixed with a few drops of Embelliseur de Teint No. 7 for pure perfection and luminosity. Lightly apply with a wedge sponge on the face, neck, and decollete.”

According to a study by psychologist Richard Rahe, stress levels have increased 45% in the last 30 years, a worrying trend that shows no sign of abating. We all deal with this anxiety and nervousness in different ways but unfortunately the brunt of these sentiments is frequently our nails.

Cult Beauty expert Andrea Fulerton has a rather good technique to help combat this habit, that she learned from one of her celebrity clients.

Start by making just one nail off-limits, watch it grow and see how elegant your finger looks. Slowly extend the exclusion zone finger by finger until you only have one nail left, then make a conscious decision to finally let that one alone.

Enjoy your new-found canvas by discovering the joys of colour varnish, this also works as a great reminder not to chew, especially if you go really bright. It doesn’t half taste horrible too.

Cult Beauty nail expert Andrea Fulerton has some brilliant tips to help avoid the trashbag, Winehouse look when attempting an at-home mani. Here is what you will need:

1 cuticle oil, 1 cuticle scissors

1 nail file, 1 nail buffer, 1 orange stick

1 basecoat, 1 colour nail varnish, 1 topcoat

1 nail corrector pen

½ hour without ANY interruption

One of the most important factors in creating a good manicure is making sure your nails are healthy and strong before you start. Equazen do a good supplement called EYEQ Omega 3 or a Biotin supplement will strengthen both your hair and nails.

For best results, time your manicure for after bath time when your cuticles are perfectly softened and your nails are clean or if you don’t have time, use a cuticle oil to soften the area. Remember that less is more when trimming or pushing back cuticles and buffing your nails. Don’t overdo it otherwise you’ll create more work for yourself. The skin is there to protect.

No matter what the season or trend I always file the nail corners making them softer/slightly rounded to avoid catching and tearing the nail. As long as your nail file isn’t too abrasive (you’ll feel it vibrate down your finger) then filing in both directions is fine. Just remember to run the buffer over the freshly filed edges to ‘re-seal’ the nail from water saturation or dehydration.

Before painting, always ensure your nail is squeaky clean by removing any excess oil as this will act as a barrier between the nail and varnish and limit the life of your manicure. Just wipe a little nail varnish remover over your nail bed.

Steady your less dominate hand by anchoring it down on the table at the wrist.

When painting your nails aim for three thin strokes each and don’t overload your brush. Less is more as the thinner it’s applied the faster it’ll dry – and without pesky air bubbles too. Thin fast base coat, two coats of colour, then a fine brush of top coat to ’seal the deal’. Make sure your varnish products aren’t too old. After 18 months most start to go gloopy and the results will be terrible.

Keep a corrector pen or concealer brush, nail varnish remover and tissue to hand in case of mistakes. Once you finish the colour coats, run the tip along the sides to give nice straight lines. Then add the topcoat to seal your handiwork.

Do nothing for 20 minutes!!!! I mean nothing.

Matte nails are super on-trend at the moment. Plum Night by Revlon (£7.13 from Boots) is a gorgeous dark purple that suits all skin tones, and Essie Mint Candy Apple is the jade green the fashion pack are going nuts for right now. This spring go for soft pinks and lilacs.

In the summer months I tend to give my fingernails a rest, let them get lots of Vitamin D from the sunshine and recover from the drying effects of chemicals. In winter when toes are wrapped up for months I trim them down short, remove my otherwise all-year-round nail varnish and oil them 2/3 times a week. Whatever you do, remove the varnish once it becomes chipped to avoid a trailer park look!

Perfect the art of make up with the help of Cult Beauty expert and celebrated make up artist Valentine Alexander. In her new fortnightly column Valentine shares her essential beauty tips exclusively with Cult Beauty readers.

“Why don’t you…delicately pat the new Clarins Concealer Stick on any facial imperfections and dark shadows? It leaves the eye contour looking visibly smoother, brighter, rested, and even. The texture is one of the best in the market and doesn’t mottle in fine lines, but make sure the colour you choose isn’t too pale.”

Exfoliate your skin before a shower with a body brush or sugar polish to remove flaky skin, it’s more effective than exfoliating wet skin. Regular exfoliation means your skin will absorb the products you use better, making them more effective.

Once the reserve of botanists and eco-warriors, natural skin care products were dismissed as pots of ineffective gunk. The modern woman scoured stores for high-performance ‘miracle’ creams without questioning the sense in dolloping harsh chemicals onto sensitive skin. But the evolution of beauty means we needn’t settle for a compromise. Cult brand REN offers the missing link in skin care, having developed effective, hi-tech products that avoid the nasty chemicals. Healthy skin is now bottled.

LUCY HALPERIN, make up artist

“I am the biggest fan of REN! The Glycolactic mask is amazing. I live in LA and swear by it as I wear sun block everyday. Using it every week leaves my skin so soft and incredibly clean as it takes away the surface dead skin cells.”

Expert tip: “Leave it on for longer than suggested (unless your face starts to tingle) and it will give you an amazing soft fresh complexion afterwards. I use it once a week for 20 minutes rather than 10.”

SARAH CHAPMAN, facialist

“REN Rose Otto Bath Oil is a little drop of heaven. With its precious rose scent and therapeutic powers it is sheer indulgence, leaving your skin silky smooth and your mind transported to an exotic place. Rose otto is one of the most precious and expensive essential oils used for years in calming and regenerative skin care.”

Expert tip: “Add Rose Otto Bath Oil to your bath and let it emulsify to a milk. Keep your doors and windows shut to trap the delicious scent.”

ANTONY BUCK, REN co-founder

“Often people think they have a skin problem when really they have a sensitivity problem. A lot of people switch to our products and suddenly feel their skin is completely different, because putting chemical products on the skin that it was never designed to have on it can cause irritation. Use quick fix, miracle skin care products which include chemicals like retinol on your skin and you will eventually pay a price.”

Expert tip: “The Frankincense and Boswellia Serrata Revitalising Repair Cream and Omega 3 Overnight Lipid Renewal Serum are both night products that can be experimented with. A good tip is to apply one drop of Omega 3 serum to your face and neck and then apply the Frankincense cream on top and leave on for a night treatment. Alternatively mix a drop of Omega 3 and a pump of Frankincense in the palm of your hand and apply to the face overnight to wake up with healthier looking skin. These treatments are even suitable for oily skin types.”