Joan Small styled by Johnni Sapong for Leonor Greyl

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Johnnie began by parting Joan’s hair down the middle, the blow dried it straight. To keep it smooth he used Serum de Soie concentrating on the ends.

To create the “day at the beach” waves he used a 3/4 inch curling iron on the middle lengths and ends.

Each section was sprayed with a medium hold hairspray and wrapped around the curling iron.

Afterwards, he brushed out her hair using a teasing comb then applied Eclat Natural to the ends to separate them

Summer is coming… (just a little ‘in’ joke for all the ‘Game of Thrones’ followers out there) and after what feels like FOREVER cocooned in layers of knitwear, the prospect of baring my flesh leaves me cold. Lily white and mottled, I’m exceedingly far from my fair-weather best – so praise be for Amanda and Yolanda, those sage (eternally bronzed) souls at Vita Liberata – who’ve compiled the following tips and tricks to make stripping off less traumatic…

SLOUGH THOSE SCALES >> ’It’s vitally important to remove dead cells and smooth the skin prior to tanning’ says Yolanda. ‘Exfoliation creates the perfect, even base for self-tan; ensuring flawless application and a long-lasting result.’ However, DON’T exfoliate immediately before tanning, warns Amanda – it’s best to do so the evening before (or to use a body brush if you’re in a mad rush) as the oils and emollients in some scrubs create a barrier between skin and the tan.

DEPILATE >> If you’re waxing, try to do it 24hrs pre-tan – this allows follicles time to recover and prevents self-tan settling in the holes (polka dots limbs are totally last season…). And if you’re a die-hard razor wielder either shave the evening before, or apply your tan and wait ’til it’s dry before slathering legs with conditioner (yes, as in, for your hair) and razor-ing to your heart’s content. ‘Tan needs skin to react with (fruit acids bind with it’s proteins to create the colour), so if you cut through it’s uppermost layer of cells, you’ll end up with zebra-esque legs.’

BANISH THAT BODY BUTTER >> As with body scrubs, ‘moisturisers create a barrier to tan’ but luckily, every Vita Liberata product has a ‘moisture-lock’ system, that leaves skin feeling velvety soft, supple and nourished.

DON A MITT >> ”Scrunch” product into the mitt and apply in circular motions.

THE DEVIL IS IN THE DETAIL >> Amanda (who tans everyone who’s anyone) told us you should ‘always tan from the toes up – it minimises the risk of tan transferral as you struggle to access those hard to reach bits.’ Once you’re done, use a damp cloth to wipe any excess colour from knuckles, knees, ankles, elbows and the sides of your feet for a flawless, believable finish.

Being a certified fake-tan phobe and having access to the oracle of all things tanning, I took advantage of the opportunity to suck some specialist secrets…

‘Skin is your largest organ and so quickly reflects what’s going on behind it. If you’re especially stressed, hormonal or have indulged in one-too-many cocktails, the pH levels in your skin can fluctuate resulting in an uneven tan, or a lighter/darker end colour than usual.’ Use Vita Liberata’s Peptide Mist, to neutralise your skin’s pH levels and add a shot of moisture (this absorbs instantly so won’t interfere with the pigmentation process).

‘Because Vita Liberata products are completely free from toxins, fragrance and alcohol, they don’t ‘crack’ on the skin so you get an even fade. That said, astringent cleansers and frequent washing can strip your face and hands of tan more quickly, so use a designated face product – such as Deep Silken Touch Face – to top up your tan when you need it.’

‘Moment by Moment  is a one-size-fits all tan, that starts developing in just one hour but keeps on going ’til you wash it off. It’s ideal for times when you want a ‘kiss of colour’ in a jiffy, or can be left overnight so you wake up looking like you’ve been on a three week vacation.’

And finally, if you’re still a bit scared about taking the plunge, experiment with ‘Capture the Light‘ – a wash-off ‘BB’ cream for the body (with SPF). The opaque versions apply like make-up, masking imperfections and granting a gorgeous, velvety effect – ‘Latte’ and ‘Latte Light’ are tinted – then use translucent ‘Gold’ or ‘Light Rose’  to sculpt arms and elongate legs, highlight shoulders and collar bones, or added to your moisturiser for a subtle, all over glow. 

View the best self tanning products on the market here >>

My hair is mad, bad and in all seriousness, pretty dangerous to know… let alone be attached to. It whips strangers in the face (awkward) and is constantly getting stuck in car windows/tube doors/jacket zips and handbag straps. I’m practically Medusa, I just haven’t turned anyone to stone quite yet…

Therefore, I decided enough was enough, and that some attempt must be made to quell my hair’s Gorgon-esque passions. Cue: Leonor Greyl’s Huile de Palme Pre-shampoo treatment – a golden elixir I’ve cleverly re-named ‘Huilde de Calm’ – witty, no?

After applying this (pre-bed) I could almost hear my hair exhale: “FINALLY!” it sighed, whilst greedily sucking up this ultra-nourishing cocktail of Coconut, Palm, Sesame, Sunflower and Hazel Seed oils like it hadn’t seen moisture in weeks (anyone would think I’d neglected it). 

As my locks had been looking especially lack-lustre, I left this overnight, and when I washed my mane the next morning it literally slipped through my fingers. Not a knot or tangle to grapple with – the comb was bored from its lack of  endeavour – and my long hair practically purred with contentment.

It’s been minding its manners ever since (see above) and has so far refrained from further attempts to blind innocent by-standers… proving all it needed was a little TLC (poor mop) and a bit of mane-taming from this genie-us in a bottle.

Heat exposure of over 110C causes three types of hair issues: damage to the hair fibre surface making it feel rougher; weakening of the keratin that makes up hair, which makes it break off easily; and deterioration of the melanin pigment, which is why you’ll find it goes lighter at the ends.

Heat protection products help by adding a barrier to direct contact with the hair fibre surface – this also usually allows whatever device to slip through your hair with less snagging, they reduce the conduction of heat and diminish heat triggered decomposition of the proteins by slowing oxidation (anti-oxidation!). Look for one of these ingredients in the first five on the list – PVP/DMAPA acrylates copolymer, Hydrolyzed wheat protein, silicone quaternium-8, Dimethicone, Quaternium 70 and anti-oxidants such as Sodium bisulfite or Vitamin C.

Davines Melu Heat Shield Protection Spray is brilliant for this, or if you want to go more the natural route Tela’s Hair Healer, Leonor Greyl’s Nourishing Styling Cream and their Serum De Soie protect and seal the cuticle, as well as conditioning and smoothing already damaged hair.

The stars were out in Monaco over the weekend, despite the dreary weather, as Dior showcased their 2014 cruise collection.  A minimalistic, feminine vibe was in effect on the runway, with lots of lace overlay, color blocking, and cut outs. In similar fashion, the models wore their hair  slicked down, parted down the middle in ponytails and donned bright fuchsia lips.

For the most important walkway for this show – the red carpet into the building – Johnnie Sapong, finessed the tresses of Ahna O’reilly (The Help, Vampire Diaries), Swiss artist Olympia Scarry, and Ruth Wilson (Jane Eyre, Lone Ranger) using his kit-bag favourite French Hair Care brand Leonor Greyl.

Olympia Scarry

For fine hair like Olympias, the  Bain Volumateur Shampoo, is great. Wheatgerm oil and Algae cleanse and detangle hair, while also moisturizing it, eradicating the need for conditioner. Johnnie also suggests using the featherweight  Serum de Soie Subllimateur to keep her hair looking lustrous without weighing it down.

Ruth Wilson

For hair like Ruth’s, Johnnie suggests Eclat Naturel Nourishing Styling Cream, rich in shea butter, jojoba oil and vitamins - it detangles, sculpts and replenishes hair.

Ahna O’Reilly

Color treated and heat styled  hair can  often become dry and brittle, leaving color looking dull. The key to counteracting this cycle is deep hydration – Try  Masque Quintessence Hair Mask which is packed with anti-oxidants, and  revitalizes, regenerates and repairs damaged hair.

‘Elizabeth’s look was all about enhancing her natural luminosity and radiance’ remarked Emma. ‘She had chosen an exquisite flesh-toned dress so my aim was to complement her outfit and make her complexion as peachy and youthful as possible, without any hard lines. Instead, I used light and subtle washes of colour, off-set by ultra-black, glossy eyelashes (Elizabeth’s are naturally very long) – filled in with Eylure’s Individual Lash Ultra and then finished with lashings of volumising mascara.’

While Elizabeth was having her hair done, her skin was prepped with a face mask/moisturiser, to revitalise her complexion and restore a natural glow (try Sunday Riley’s Good Genes Serum & Mask or Bliss’ Triple Oxygen Instant Energizing Mask to give sluggish skin an immediate ‘boost’). After fifteen minutes or so, the mask was removed (along with any residue) and Emma applied Ling Skin Care’s Hi-Vitamin C Serum (12%) together with a few drops of organic rose oil (such as MV Organic Skincare’s Rose Plus Booster) to maximise skin’s lustre without leaving it greasy.

‘Elizabeth has great skin, so I used foundation very sparingly’ – Emma chose a pink-toned, porcelain foundation (try Face Atelier’s Ultra Foundation in shade #1, Porcelain) – ‘too often very fair skinned people use a base with too much yellow in it, which clashes with their colouring and can leave them looking ashen.’ Foundation was then followed with concealer to counteract redness around the nose and brighten any under-eye shadows.

To achieve the ‘wet-look’ eye make-up effect, Emma ‘used a combination of a sheer yellow toned cream eye gloss and a transparent illuminator across the lids and cheekbones to get that luminescent, slightly dewy look’.

TRY >> ELLIS FAAS Creamy Eyes in ‘Yellow Ochre’ mixed with the merest dot of Pommade Divine – then dab RMS Beauty’s Living Luminizer along the brow and cheekbones with your ring finger.

Emma then defined the lower lids with a taupe brown shadow and finished with a dot of Belmacz’s Silver Swan at the inner corner of each eye.

Brows were sculpted using Anastasia Beverly Hill’s Brow Genius before cheeks were enhanced with a peach-toned lip and cheek creme, blended into the ‘apples’ using fingertips (try Stila’s Convertible Color in ‘Gladiola’). Emma than dusted an apricot powder blush over the top, to intensify the pigment and prevent it from sliding.

Et voila – Now you too can look Cannes-tastic like Elizabeth! Thanks Emma!

Jonnie Sapong, CB Expert and Samantha Bark from Le Mis – at Cannes Film Fest

“Creating the look, for each celebrity is a collaboration between myself and that particular artist, to create the right look that matches the mood and the synergy of that moment. Working with the Leonor Greyl collection and especially with Eclat Natural for its nourishing qualities and natural feel. All of the products are made only with natural ingredients, the reason I am able to make hair look healthy, luxurious and glamourous and by working with the Leonor Greyl products, I can easily achieve this.”

“The red carpet is a pressure cooker environment. The celebrity has to look right as their image will be beamed all of the world in moments. Cannes is especially a high pressure event. Steeped in history Cannes is one of the big two. Probably only second to the Oscars, Cannes is special.”

]]> http://www.cultbeauty.co.uk/blog/2013/05/johnnie-sapong-backstage-at-cannes/feed/ 0 http://www.cultbeauty.co.uk/blog/2013/05/a-festival-of-colour/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=a-festival-of-colour http://www.cultbeauty.co.uk/blog/2013/05/a-festival-of-colour/#comments Wed, 15 May 2013 22:12:16 +0000 China Moss http://www.cultbeauty.co.uk/blog/?p=15628 Stila’s ALL NEW ‘Festival Of Colour’  is everything you need to have a fabulous festival. Drawing inspiration specifically from music festivals, raves and light shows around the world, this collection is anything but dull. With vibrant color rich lip crayons that glow under backlights, eye shadows so custom that each pot is a work of art, and a BB cream that does more err.. work.. than any groupie I’ve ever met  -this is truly a full sensory experience.

10-in-1 Stay All Day BB Cream

Admittedly skeptical about BB creams at first, I have to say, I was truly impressed. Different from a tinted moisturizer, or a primer, it just went on, and evened everything out, without making it look like I was wearing any makeup.  The 10-in-one title is no joke, this little bottle is packed with all sorts of multi-tasking magic. Packed with peptides, pea shoots, and bamboo extracts it has been shown to reduce skin inflammation,  improve texture and stimulate collagen production. I absolutely noticed reduction in redness and splotchiness of my skin – and it just added an overall evenness to my whole face, even in the spotty areas. Its oil free and paraben free, so sensitive skin need not worry.  The  Stay-All-Day Illuminating Beauty Balm uses tiny light reflectors to give your skin a slightly shimmery radiance while the Stay-All-Day Bronzing Beauty Balm leaves  you with a sexy, yet sutbtle sun kissed glow.

The Afterglow Lip color  is available in 5 shades, all of which I want, if not only for the names (Electric Pink, Vivid Violet, Tangerine Dream, Festive Fuchsia, Rave Red, and Party Pink,).

Bright as the sun.  These color rich pigments are 3x brighter than average lip color, and contain sunflower and algae extracts that work hard to keep you smooched smooth during the day

Light up the night. Black light sensitive pigments in the color, make them glow in the dark. So why not let your lips lead the way to the front of the stage.

The appropriately named Countless Colour Pigments are the product of first-to-market (pressing/baking) technology that allow you to blend colors within the palette without permanently mixing the pigments. So you can truly customize your color with every application, without having to worry about the colors bleeding or mixing (permanently) together.

Jill Tomandi, (Stila’s Creative Chief Operator)  showed us some  of the blenadable color possibilities of ‘light show’ Then demonstrates how with a simple swipe of her powder brush, the palette is once again pristine, and colors are clearly separated.The best part is, that Stila’s ‘Festival of Colour’ collection truly will play with you all day, and stay on you all night. Have a Happy Festival!

Shop the entire Stila Collection >>

]]> http://www.cultbeauty.co.uk/blog/2013/05/a-festival-of-colour/feed/ 0 http://www.cultbeauty.co.uk/blog/2013/05/real-beauty-problems/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=real-beauty-problems http://www.cultbeauty.co.uk/blog/2013/05/real-beauty-problems/#comments Wed, 15 May 2013 19:23:46 +0000 Alexia Inge http://www.cultbeauty.co.uk/blog/?p=15610

Dear Cult Beauty Experts,

I am 45 years old. My skin type is fair with freckles (see image). My overall skin condition is good and I am fortunate to have few wrinkles. My skin can be a little dry from time to time. I look younger than my age but would like my skin to look better still. I do not like wearing heavy foundation but do want something that offers good coverage and provides a luminous glow.

Can you please recommend a suitable foundation or tinted moisturiser please. I currently use products by Laura Mercier and Chantecaille.

Thanks, Deborah

Hello Deborah,

We have the perfect product for you. It’s by an ingenious make up brand called Jouer Cosmetics and this is their hero product. It won Allure Magazine’s best foundation category last year; Jouer isn’t an advertiser which makes this more meaningful.

The Luminizing Moisture Tint – which also has a matte sister product – is water resistant with an SPF of 20. It adds a luminosity to the skin, a subtle glow of health rather than a glittery, or even worse sweaty-looking finish, which some luminizers create.

The thing I love most about it is that once applied it really doesn’t move. This is not a product to disguise extremely uneven skin tones, you will still see some of your freckles through it, but that is really the best result, a compromise between natural and the ‘perfection’ we are driven to try and obtain nowadays.

This is oil-free so if your skin is feeling particularly dry, I would add just a little more moisturiser beneath it. But that element is what makes this product so versatile across all skin types. I would recommend the pearl colour, but if you tan a little in the summer golden will look really lovely.

Should I be using a primer as well? I am also looking for a good moisturiser as well – something with an SPF as I often don’t wear anything else on my skin.

Not with the Jouer ones.

If your skin has dry tendencies then your cleanser and moisturiser should be your main focus. I find balms – such as ones by Oskia, Omorovicza, REN, or an oil – steamed with a muslin cloth, are the most satisfying and efficient way of cleansing dry skin.

SPF Moisturiser-wise, the cheapest great option is by Alpha H. I wouldn’t recommend it for oily skins and you only need to use a small amount, but it’s really good quality for the price. The dreamy deluxe one is by Sunday Riley – the Cashmere SPF30 Advanced Sun Defence and pH Advantage do a lovely mid-range one.