Archive for the ‘Ask the experts’ Category

I have a problem with my cuticles, they seem to be stuck to the nail and I have tried every product but to no avail. Could you recommend anything?  Thank you, CH

Cult Beauty Expert Teresa Smith suggests

I would recommend she tries SolarOil by CND, apply generously to the enti re cuticle area and leave for around one minute, then gently ease back the cuticle with the hoof end (the thicker end) of a wooden manicure stick. If she does this regularly the cuticle will eventually shrink back. Daily use of AHA Cuticle Eraser by CND will also help by micro-exfoliating the cuticle. The SolarOil will keep them well conditioned & soft.

Hope this helps.

Teresa xx

For over a hundred years, the red lip has held an unrivalled position as the most dramatic, daring and eye-catching beauty look a woman can wear. American insider brand 3 Custom Color has celebrated red lipstick’s iconic status with their palette, A Century in Red, which contains a lipstick or gloss for each of the decades of the 20th century, plus one for the 21st. Whether your favourite era’s the Roaring ’20s or the poptastic ’80s there’s the perfect red shade to represent the definitive woman of that time.

A-list make-up artist and Cult Beauty expert Emma Day explains her take on the classic red lip: “Doing a red lip is the rare occasion I will use a lip liner to get the shape of the lip and give it an undercoat, I then go over the top with an angled lip brush with a lipstick to give a real intensity to the colour – the lip liner will give the lip staying power and help it stay on. I then go over the outline with a cotton bud to make sure it’s perfect and hasn’t bled over the lip-line. Blotting and re-applying the lipstick with a tissue also helps the lipstick not to move.

Personally I love a hot orangey matt red on a blonde, ’50s style (love 3 Custom Colour lipstick in Ballet Russe). Brunettes can take more of a range of reds – I do think a plummy and vampy red can look brilliant on a sultry brunette. If you want to go for the colour but are a bit unconfident with getting away with it, or have a thinner lip-shape – I suggest using a red stain in the middle of your lip which you can blend out with your fingers. This gives a much softer appearance to the lip, whilst you still get a pop of colour. Always prep the lips before with a bit of lipbalm and then tissue it off to get rid of the residue.”

SHOP ALL RED LIPSTICKS

A well chosen (and placed) blusher is one of the easiest and quickest ways to roll back the years. When we are young and healthy our skin is naturally more oxygenated, the vascular system just beneath more efficient, causing a natural, youthful flush. As we age this fades but luckily this is the easiest youthful sign to fake.

Celebrity make-up artist and Cult Beauty expert Emma Day gives her tips for getting a beautiful blush:

“For rosy cheeks it’s really important you locate the apples of your cheeks as this is where you will place the blush, as opposed to bringing the blush in a sculpted way along the cheekbones. To keep cheeks looking young and rosy, apply the blusher in that central part of the cheekbones and blend out with your fingers, I prefer creme blush or gel for this look as it’s more natural-looking, although for a stronger colour I would use powder with a brush as the pigments last longer. I always use a highlighter in a pale colour on the upper part of the cheekbones to give a fresh soft focus look that brings light to the face and immediately perks up a tired complexion.”

Emma gives rising star Rachel Hurd Wood beautifully rosy cheeks.

Shop blushers now.

Cult Beauty expert and celebrated make up artist Valentine Alexander shares her essential beauty tips exclusively with Cult Beauty readers.

Try the Queen of at-home facials… Darphin Paris/London

Heavy sunscreen and self-tanners during the Summer months can clog pores and dull the skin as well as creating break-outs. Darphin has created 2 of the best products that work in synergy for the Creme de la Creme of home-made skin perfection. You will save precious time with the same results of a spa facial.

DERMABRASION is key and Darphin’s is the best I’ve tried.
1. Start with the age-defying dermabrasion that respects even the most sensitive skin. The texture of your skin will be polished and smoothed with a poreless, glowing patina. Ultimate radiance guaranteed!!

2. Follow with the Youtful Radiance Camellia Mask I leave it on for 10 minutes 2 or 3 times a week and the results are staggering. The other plus is the experience of applying it is sensual and aromatic with one’s wellbeing much enhanced by breathing in the Essential Oils of Camellia, Neroli, Sandlewood, Iris, and White Musk.

I feel restored and revitalized and my skin is glowing, and visibly plumped. I do not need base and the results are long-term!! valentine alexander

Cult Beauty expert and celebrated make up artist Valentine Alexander shares her essential beauty tips exclusively with Cult Beauty readers.

Try the rare, artisanal, original and very special perfumes from the Tom Ford Collection. These scents are TRULY MESMERIZING.
Discover the OUD WOOD with exotic Rosewood and Cardamom, Sandalwood and Vetiver with creamy base notes of Tonka Bean, Vanilla and Amber and Oud. There is not a day when I am not asked the scent I am wearing…
My other favourite, JAPON NOIR, warm and sexy with Patchouli, Night Blooming Jasmine, Amber, and Vetiver.

These are scents that truly LIFT the mind and spirit in a way that many perfumes do not. They are magical finds in a market saturated with a vast quantity of perfumes that seem to smell so similar. These amazing perfumes  have created a RAGE in Paris and my favourites are sold out everywhere. They are available at Harrods. Wonderful for a high intrigue summer!! Valentine Alexander

Could you tell us what inspired you to create Priti?

The idea for creating Priti NYC nails came during my pregnancy while I was sitting in a conventional salon.  The smell of toxins and chemicals from all the beauty products became overwhelming, and I thought, “If I eat organically and use chemical-free household products, why would I not want to beautify myself in the same manner?” I began working on Priti NYC the next day.

Through doing research on all the various ingredients and products we expose ourselves to on a daily basis, I knew I wanted to raise my daughter in the healthiest and most natural way possible.  Shortly after her birth, I went through an ordeal with skin cancer, which only re-enforced that I had no choice but to live a green and all-natural lifestyle, for both my and her sake.

Could you explain the ethos of Priti – why it’s important to you to be producing products that are environmentally sound as well as on-trend.

Many young girls dream to be the women they see on TV and in magazines. This is how beauty is represented in our society. Displaying green beauty products that are just as on-trend as non-green products in these magazines helps change the perception of what beauty is and our ideals creating beauty for the next generation.

What are the scariest facts you’ve uncovered about the ingredients used in cosmetics during the course of your research?

It’s no secret that most of the products we use in our daily routines contain toxic ingredients, and products are actually absorbed directly into our bodies through the skin. When I began doing research to create Priti NYC, I learned that women absorb several pounds worth of chemicals from cosmetics and toiletries alone each year.  To learn that Formaldehyde, found in nail polish and many other beauty products, has been linked to cancer is very scary. Another common ingredient in nail polish is dibutyl phthalate, which has been shown to cause birth defects in animals. There is no question that we should not be putting these chemicals into our bodies.

Tell us how you came to invent the Soya-based Nail Varnish Remover – one of Priti’s most iconic products!

I knew that once I had created Priti NYC non-toxic polish, we had to continue to develop the product line to be all encompassing. Traditional nail polish remover contains acetone, among many other chemicals. When acetone particles are inhaled, there can be serious effects on our health.  We were determined to find all-natural ingredients that could do the same job as nail polish remover and we did.  The added benefit is that the combination of essential oils actually nourish the skin and hydrate our cuticles, as where acetone nail polish remover only contributes to skin dryness.

Could you pick out one nail colour from the range that you personally love, or that’s going to be this season’s must-have shade on everyone’s fingertips?

I love orange nails for summer. One of my favorites is ‘Snapdragon’, a fiery and bright shade we used for Rachel Roy’s Spring/Summer 2010 fashion show. Nudes and whites are also popular again this season.

And do you have an all-time favourite shade?

Right now, my favorite shade is ‘Blue Eyed Brunette‘. It reminds me of what a woman might have worn in Monte Carlo in the 1930′s as she made her entrance into the Casino de Paris.

Do you have any advice for people when it comes to choosing a shade to suit them – does skin colour, hair colour, personal style etc effect the choice of nail shade?

First and foremost before choosing a shade, always make sure you check the ingredients. Never buy anything that contains DBP, formaldehyde or tolouene.

For choosing the right color, you can take cues from your favorite lipsticks.  If you look great in blue-based red lipsticks, then this will also be true for your nail polish and the skin tone of your hands. You can also choose the right colors for you based on your wardrobe – if you have nothing pink in your wardrobe and wear red a lot, then choosing a pink nail polish will probably not look as good as if you were to choose another shade.  Also, shop for the right shade based on your skin tone. People with fair skin tend to look better in polishes with pink or blue undertones, such as berry pink.  Olive skin tones look great with gold and metallics, and dark skin looks amazing with anything vibrant, such as a great orange or bright purple.

What’s it like doing the models’ nails backstage at fashion shows?

Doing the nails backstage during Fashion Week can be very challenging, yet entertaining. The hair and make-up set the stage for the looks, so we must work around them, which often has us crawling on the floor to paint the girls’ toes and not be in the way! Even though they are not as prominently seen as the hair and make-up on the runway, nails really complete the look of the overall presentation.

We don’t use acrylic nails on the girls – you have to remember that these models are running from show to show, and half the time arrive only a few minutes before the show starts.  We have to be quick and methodical, making sure we get every girl’s hands and feet done before show time.

The beautiful young models always start off the week with perfect manicures, but by the time it’s all over, their nails are red and their cuticles are torn. I tell them to go home and soak their fingers in olive oil or use their favorite lip balm on their cuticles.

The funny part about the nails at Fashion Week is that you can tell what shows each girl was in based on the layers of different colors you see when removing the polish. Often times there will not be enough time to take off the polish from the previous show, so if we are using a dark color, it is easier to just paint over the shade they are already wearing. By the end of each day, girls can have up to 5 layers of different color polishes on.

How do you work on creating shades for different designers and films?

Polish is like an accessory – it can complete or compete, so we always attend the hair and make-up tests to ensure that the nails go in line with designer’s vision. I have had the opportunity to work with the best hair and make-up artists in the world and they are all very respectful of everyone’s role in achieving the designer’s dream.

Creating custom shades for designers and films is definitely a collaborative process, though the process is different each time.  Many designers will play with the Priti NYC colors to formulate ideas and then I will perfect a shade for them on my end.  Others will say they want a great nude and leave it up to us to deliver the best nude we’ve got.  We created ‘Snapdragon’ for Rachel Roy based on the lipstick she had chosen to get the nails and lips to be a dead-on match.

‘Blue Eyed Brunette’ was actually made for the upcoming Martin Scorsese series Boardwalk Empire.  That is of course very exciting because Martin Scorsese is such a legend and very highly respected filmmaker of our time. phoebe frangoul

A-list hair stylist and Cult Beauty expert Tara Smith is back in Blighty after launching her all-natural haircare line with a star-studded party in New York. We caught up with the celebrity scissorhands to find out what she’s been up to and what’s next…

“I’ve just been in New York – I was there for a fortnight but I got held up for five days because of the ash cloud! I was launching my product line in Manhattan – it’s going into Duane Reede stores exclusively – 262 stores across the US. A percentage of the profits are going to the Urban Zen Foundation (Urbanzen.org co-founded by Donna Karan and Sonja Nuttall). Last week Donna threw a party for me – lots of my celeb friends came to lend their support including Lucy Liu and Rosario Dawson. I’m going to be in and out of New York doing lots of in-store appearances, but I’m here in London until mid-May and this weekend I ran the London marathon with my friend Natalie Imbruglia! I’m running for Loros (www.justgiving.com/Tara-Smith) and I’ve raised over £13,000 so far! 

When I arrived in London everything was hurting from the stress and a friend told me about Return to Glory, a London-based, mobile massage service that just comes to your house. I opted for a Swedish massage which was brilliantly executed by Lauren Turner who arrived with half an hour’s notice to untie the knots in my back (£55 for 1 hour, 020 7993 8063).

When I was in LA Jamie Cullum rang me up and begged me to cut his hair. I did his music videos last year and his album cover – I cut his hair on the set of the Ellen Degeneres show! She’s such a sweetie.

I’ve been working all week with my chemist (he developed the Body Shop’s products) on an expanded range of innovative styling products – but it’s top secret for now. And next weekend I’m going to Majorca for a well-earned holiday!”

In her fortnightly column Cult Beauty expert and celebrated make up artist Valentine Alexander shares her insider knowledge of the French beauty scene exclusively with Cult Beauty readers.

“I am loving the AESOP range at the moment. Created in Australia, these are superlative products for skin, hair, and body which boast the finest of plant-based ingredients and anti-oxidants.

I find that using a series of their products becomes a protective beauty ritual, a truly unique beauty experience. The exquisite aromas for which AESOP is renowned elevate the spirit and create a new energy for the user.

Must-haves:

Parsley Seed Facial Cleansing Oil: The best I’ve tried. For all skin types. Removes all make up in seconds and skin is left soft and very supple.

Purifying Facial Exfoliant Paste: The weekly exfoliant you are searching for! It will slough away your tired surface skin and leave a soft and radiant patina. Good for sensitive skin as well.

Damascan Rose Facial Treatment: A truly wonderful to use, deeply nourishing treatment for dry, distressed skin that has suffered this Winter from central heating and the elements. It contains 10 precious plant extracts. A magic under make up primer as well.

Rejuvenate Aromatic Body Balm: Vanilla, Sandlewood, Tangerine Rind create a super intensive Balm for hands and body. This luxurious, greaseless balm becomes addictive!

The two perfume elixirs:
Mystra: With Labdanum, Frankincense, Mastic. A spiritual, rich, and haunting scent that gives instant energy and inspiration. My new Perfume that I take everywhere for frequent top-ups. Use the Baume de Parfum and Roll On, and, Eau de Toilette first thing in the morning for the ultimate wake-up call!

Marrakech: With Clove, Sandlewood, Cardamom. An exotic blend of essential oils that immediately lift the spirit
and create new inspiration. Use the Baume de Parfum and Roll On for touch-ups and the Eau de Toilette for the first geste of the morning. valentine alexander

AESOP Paris: (33 1 44 41 02 19) AESOP London: Mayfair (0207 409 2358)

We asked Hollywood make-up artist (and Cult Beauty Expert) Kathleen Beaton for her Spring beauty tips so look out for a weekly update on the CB blog!

“Regarding covering blemishes; use a very fine pointed brush because it’s all about precision.  I find that dual-finish powders (which are heavier and act like base) are ideal for covering blemishes and redness.  Just dot the powder on the blemish and then with another brush (a concealer brush) feather the powder out around the blemish being careful not to touch the blemish.”

Kathleen Beaton has worked with George Clooney, Michael Caine and Amy Smart.

Got a question for one of our experts? Email them at experts@cultbeauty.co.uk

Hello Cult Beauty,

I have a very clear complexion which is prone to the occasional outbreak of eczema. However I keep getting spots under the skin which are really visible and I want to get rid of them!

I get blackheads on my chin accompanied by small lumps which do not have a head but when squeezed produce a tiny amount of pus. I also get those small white lumps which I have been told the best way to remove is with a needle as they are a build up of skin.

I use Liz Earle products to wash my face, but what others do you recommend to get rid of these annoying spots!

Thanks so much!!

Top New York facialist and Cult Beauty Expert Ling Chan says:

From your description it does seem that you need to increase your exfoliation, as many of the things you pointed out have to do with dead skin cell build-up, along with your natural oil production.  To help regulate the oil production, I would recommend using a moisturising toner like my Replenishing Hydrator to help hydrate and balance the skin.

In terms of the clogged pores, breakouts under the skin etc. you need to increase your exfoliation of the skin cells with either a physical or chemical exfoliator.  For a really deep exfoliation, you would benefit from using the Spotlight Papaya ReSurface Peel every other night to exfoliate the skin and help remove excess dead skin cell build-up.

You should look for products that contain ingredients such as Glycolic Acid and Alpha Hydroxy Acid – anything that helps to exfoliate and remove the dead skin build-up.

Good luck!

Ling

New York facialist Ling Chan is the go-to person in Manhattan for Madonna, Uma, Naomi, Cameron Diaz and Gisele, who all use her products.

Have you got a beauty dilemma that one of our experts could help with? Just email experts@cultbeauty.co.uk.

In her fortnightly column Cult Beauty expert and celebrated make up artist Valentine Alexander shares her insider knowledge of the French beauty scene exclusively with Cult Beauty readers.

Flash from Paris! I want to tell you about a brilliant range created in 2006 by the esteemed alchemist Pedro Garcia Maggi called SKEEN+. It’s a skincare line originally created for men and now adopted by women who want flawless, luminous anti-aging results from their high tech skincare regime. Fabricated without perfumes or colorants, these skin perfecting serums and Elixirs are made with Hyaluronic Acid, Vitamins C,E,F in high concentrations and Resveratrol.

MUST TRY: SKEEN+ Poudre Soin Lumiere (Illuminating Care Powder) – A Vitamin C Powder Elixir that melts into skin on contact. Formulated to re-activate radiance on application, for a smoother, matt skin finish. Delivers a daily concentrate of Vitamin C, recognised in the field of Dermatology for its anti-aging and antioxidant powers. Use in the morning over your habitual moisturiser for a glowing, matte patina on the skin. Ideal to use before applying makeup. Available at SpaceNK this April 2010. valentine alexander

If you want an easy anti-wrinkle fix, it’s time take a tip from Sleeping Beauty and get yourself a good night’s slumber. Responsible for the secretion of anti-ageing growth hormones and the preservation of proteins, beauty sleep allows the body to rebuild tissue and repair the day-to-day damage caused by factors such as stress and sun. It’s the simplest route to skin that is both radiant and revitalised. We can’t think of a better reason to hop right into bed. Well, maybe one.

Boost your chance of a blissful slumber with these sleep-inducing tips from relaxation guru and Cult Beauty expert and author of celebrity favourite anti-exhaustion guide called SPENT, Dr Frank Lipman.

DO…

1. Create a regular routine. Getting up and going to bed around the same time, even on weekends, is the most important thing you can do to establish good sleep habits. Waking and sleeping at set times reinforces a consistent sleep rhythm and reminds the brain when to release sleep and wake hormones, and more importantly, when not to.

2. Keep the room cool. A sleeping temperature of 16-18°c is best for most people, even in the dead of winter. Our bodies need time to produce enough sleep neurotransmitters to allow you to sleep, and lowering ambient temperature sends a feedback signal to the brain’s sleep centre that it is night time, and that it needs to release more sleep hormones.

3. Don’t use the bedroom for anything but sleep and sex. Like Pavlov’s dogs, we can unwittingly condition ourselves to not be able to sleep in the bedroom. If you find you can’t fall asleep within 45 minutes, get up and out of the bedroom. Read a book or do some other calming activity for another 1 – 1 ½ hours before trying to sleep again. Staying in bed only causes stress over not sleeping.

4. Avoid before-bed snacks, particularly grains and sugars. This will raise blood sugar and inhibit sleep. Later, when blood sugar drops too low you might wake up and be unable to fall back asleep.

5. Get off sleeping pills. Sleeping pills can actually make insomnia worse, not better. Since these pills are addictive, and higher mortality rates are associated with chronic sleeping pill use, don’t take them. Your doctor can help you design a regimen to wean yourself of them.

It might seem like a quick-fix, but DON’T…

Use the weekend to make up for lost sleep. This harms the body clock’s ability to regulate healthy sleep patterns. Our bodies crave regularity and need a consistent sleep schedule.

or

Drink alcohol to fall asleep. Although it has an initial sleep inducing effect, when broken down by the body, alcohol can lighten sleep and cause frequent and early awakening. It also blocks the brain’s oxygen sensors, cutting oxygen and complicating sleep conditions, particularly sleep apnea.

In her fortnightly column Cult Beauty expert and celebrated make up artist Valentine Alexander shares her insider tips from the front line of French beauty exclusively with Cult Beauty readers.

My favourite Bio (French slang for organic) skincare range sold in the Parapharmacies here is Sanoflore. It’s certified by Ecocert, made in France and has been doing so well it was recently bought out by L’Oreal. My favourite product from this line is the Anti-ageing Elixir with Lemon Balm essential oil from Vercors, a powerful natural Antioxidant. Renowned for its therapeutic virtues, Lemon Balm, known for a long time as the “herb of longevity” has a reputation dating back centuries. This Elixir erases wrinkles and fine lines brilliantly. The skin is rejuvenated, radiant, and healthy. I use this Elixir daily before makeup and as a night cream. This is my new miracle cream. valentine alexander

This is the best tutorial I have found around how to create this signature look of Gisele’s, as its star Johnny Lavoy terms it, Soft & Sexy Victoria’s Secret Supermodel Waves.

A really quick technique to instantly inject some sexiness, youth and movement into your look. Spray wax is definitely something to use sparingly so that you don’t end up straying into the whelms of the new Beauty Grunge look, appearing all over the A/W 2010-11 New York Catwalks at the moment…more on that later.

If you have fine hair use a little Universal Body Mousse by Davines before curling to hold the style better, then Bumble & Bumble Surf Spray is a perfect product to mess them up, creating that just-came-back-from-playing-volleyball-on-the-beach-all-day, where’s-my-Caipirinha look.

alexia inge

I’m 27-years-old and normally have quite dry skin. All through my teens my skin was fine; the odd spot but nothing major. However, about four years ago I started to get spots on my cheeks, at my hairline, between my eyebrows, and above my nose. They always take about 10 days to come to the surface, then about two to three weeks to heal. They then scar for six months to a year and are often sore. I don’t wear foundation, only a little concealer on the spots themselves. I use basic moisturiser during the day and some bio oil at night to try to minimise the scarring. On the whole my skin is dry and a little sensitive. Are there any products you can recommend?

Cult Beauty expert Sarah Chapman says:

“My first question would be to ask if you have recently changed your hair care as this can irritate the skin around the hairline. It is also possible that the skin is changing due to hormones, lifestyle or stress. I would suggest addressing many elements:

First of all – diet. Make sure you get a good balanced diet. Supplement it with flaxseed to help the dryness and inflammation, as well daily time release Vitamin C and zinc to help healing. I would recommend trying out the Lamberts range.

Next, always remember not to pick as this will scar and mark the skin. As healing is slow, I would recommend massaging the face at home to stimulate the blood flow and aid drainage. Your skin seems to be sluggish, tired, and in need of pepping up, so, if you can, I would also suggest a few facials to bring it to life.

I would change your cleansing routine to incorporate an oil cleanser (e.g. Skinesis Ultimate Cleanse, Neal’s Yard Organic Wild Rose Beauty Balm, Omorovicza Thermal Cleansing Balm). Massage this thoroughly into the skin to help dissolve pore blockages, as well as stimulate circulation and lymph drainage. This will cleanse effectively without drying your skin, which can also lead to break outs.

It is also extremely important to exfoliate. This lifts off the dry cells which can sit on the surface and block the pathway for sebum to pass out of the pores. This can lead to spots, so we must therefore address the dryness with nourishment and gentle exfoliation. For gentle exfoliation options I like Dermalogica Microfoliant or Darphin Aroma Peel. I would also suggest using a high strength Vitamin A product to help balance the skin, while aiding healing at the same time. We have had some great results on skin that marks and is unbalanced with Skinesis Dynamic Defence Concentrate.”

Although Bio Oil is great stuff, we would question whether this is helping your issues. A healing serum would probably have a better effect because when your skin is dry it usually needs more help than a moisturiser alone can provide. SoPhyto gets the most amazing feedback from our customers for it’s blemish clearing abilities, especially the Polyphenol Drops serum. pH Advantage also do a High Potency Vitamin C Serum and Glycolic Exfoliating Moisturiser, which are packed with everything you need to clear your skin. Finally,  Oxygen Plasma Potion from Ling Skin Care was designed to heal scarring from severe burns suffered in combat (Cameron Diaz and Agyness Deyn use it to keep their spots in check).

Once you have sorted out the big issues,  Australian Bodycare Facial Wash and On the Spot Stick are extremely effective and great value as an ongoing maintenance routine.

If you have a beauty problem you need help with please email experts@cultbeauty.co.uk.

My winter coat is replete, all remnants of any colour from Autumn has left my skin leaving me with a pallor not that far removed from a plucked chicken. Having very light blond hair was making me look terribly washed out and dare I say it, OLD! So I decided to consult Cult Beauty hair expert Paul Edmonds.

Paul suggested adding some more apricot hues to my ashy blond hair to tone down the blues which were washing out my complexion. I was a little worried about dyeing my hair darker, but the results really warmed my whole countenance.

I have noticed Madonna has been doing a similar thing for a little while now, as have Diane Kruger and Sarah Jessica Parker and it really works to soften their strong features, with an instant anti-ageing effect.

I fully plan to go back to my original ashy blond in the summer when a little browner, but for right now the winter coat is staying. alexia inge

A half head of highlights at Paul Edmonds London – prices ranging from £85 for a Junior Technician and £150 for an Artistic Director

Paul Edmonds Salon,217 Brompton Road, London, SW3 2EJ.  0844 770 9410. www.pauledmonds.com

As a teenager I had greasy hair, but it’s normally shiny and healthy looking. However, recently I have found that my roots are greasy and the ends can be dry. I’m struggling to get a shampoo that doesn’t seem to make it worse. At the moment I’m using a clarifying shampoo, which is okay but not really working. Can you suggest any alternatives?

Cult Beauty expert James Corbett says:

“What causes some people to produce more sebum than others is not always known and the reasons for the problem may vary among individuals. The solution is largely trial and error, finding what works for you.

Oily hair can be an inherited condition, but if you feel this is a recent change then look to your hormones. The regularity of your cycle and birth control pills can change the body’s natural balance and cause the sebaceous glands to overact. In this case consult a doctor.

Have you changed your diet? I strongly believe diet can play a strong role in hair condition. If you fill your body with high fat foods (or too much dairy) low in nutrition and protein, it will come out in your hair. Of course, this is over a period of time and I’m not saying that if you splurge on a cheeseburger and fries one night you will wake up with oily hair. It’s a lifestyle thing, and you should consult a dietitian if you want to learn more.

Also consider if you have been more stressed than usual. (Who isn’t in this economy?) Stress boost bloodstream levels of androgen, a hormone that activates the sebaceous glands. So take a yoga class, a guided meditation class, or whatever you find makes you relax.

Now we have determined the general causes, let’s discuss ways to combat the problem. Try not to run the fingers/ hands through the hair, and avoid brushing as much as possible. The more you stimulate the scalp the more oils it will produce.

The matter of how often to shampoo is a very split topic. I recommend trying each method for a while to see, which works best for you. Some say that the more you shampoo the more you will remove oil. This seems logical but some believe that this stimulates the oil glands to produce more and exacerbates the problem. You could try letting your hair rest to stop the oil glands producing more, but if you go for this method you have to commit to it and give it a good try. I would say at least a month. Try washing every other day and the hair glands may regulate, but it doesn’t happen overnight.

The type of shampoo you use can help as well. Clarifying shampoos are a good option, but make sure they don’t contain harsh ingredients like Sodium Lauryl Sulphate. Harsher shampoos may cause your glands to produce more oils so don’t think chemicals are the answer! Look for ingredients like Sage, Rosemary, Peppermint, and Zinc. I personally love Philip B products: Peppermint and Avocado Shampoo and the Anti Flake Shampoo for oily hair (which also contains Zinc). When using treatment shampoos like this, let them sit for 3-5 minutes, make sure to work through from root to tip, and rinse very well.”

I also do oil treatments with these oils applied to the scalp to regulate the glands.”

Philip B hair care products are available from John Lewis stores nationwide.

Perfect the art of make up with the help of Cult Beauty expert and celebrated make up artist Valentine Alexander. In her new fortnightly column Valentine shares her essential beauty tips exclusively with Cult Beauty readers.

“Why don’t you…try the new cult cream from Giorgio Armani, OMC3? Containing a high level of hyaluronic acid, it magically regenerates skin tone and wrinkles disappear almost immediately. Skin is left luminous, plumped, and glowing. I use it as a brilliant under make up base and as a night cream as well. My skin has never been better in the morning.

Follow with the Armani prize winning skin perfector, Face Fabric, mixed with a few drops of Embelliseur de Teint No. 7 for pure perfection and luminosity. Lightly apply with a wedge sponge on the face, neck, and decollete.”

According to a study by psychologist Richard Rahe, stress levels have increased 45% in the last 30 years, a worrying trend that shows no sign of abating. We all deal with this anxiety and nervousness in different ways but unfortunately the brunt of these sentiments is frequently our nails.

Cult Beauty expert Andrea Fulerton has a rather good technique to help combat this habit, that she learned from one of her celebrity clients.

Start by making just one nail off-limits, watch it grow and see how elegant your finger looks. Slowly extend the exclusion zone finger by finger until you only have one nail left, then make a conscious decision to finally let that one alone.

Enjoy your new-found canvas by discovering the joys of colour varnish, this also works as a great reminder not to chew, especially if you go really bright. It doesn’t half taste horrible too.

Cult Beauty nail expert Andrea Fulerton has some brilliant tips to help avoid the trashbag, Winehouse look when attempting an at-home mani. Here is what you will need:

1 cuticle oil, 1 cuticle scissors

1 nail file, 1 nail buffer, 1 orange stick

1 basecoat, 1 colour nail varnish, 1 topcoat

1 nail corrector pen

½ hour without ANY interruption

One of the most important factors in creating a good manicure is making sure your nails are healthy and strong before you start. Equazen do a good supplement called EYEQ Omega 3 or a Biotin supplement will strengthen both your hair and nails.

For best results, time your manicure for after bath time when your cuticles are perfectly softened and your nails are clean or if you don’t have time, use a cuticle oil to soften the area. Remember that less is more when trimming or pushing back cuticles and buffing your nails. Don’t overdo it otherwise you’ll create more work for yourself. The skin is there to protect.

No matter what the season or trend I always file the nail corners making them softer/slightly rounded to avoid catching and tearing the nail. As long as your nail file isn’t too abrasive (you’ll feel it vibrate down your finger) then filing in both directions is fine. Just remember to run the buffer over the freshly filed edges to ‘re-seal’ the nail from water saturation or dehydration.

Before painting, always ensure your nail is squeaky clean by removing any excess oil as this will act as a barrier between the nail and varnish and limit the life of your manicure. Just wipe a little nail varnish remover over your nail bed.

Steady your less dominate hand by anchoring it down on the table at the wrist.

When painting your nails aim for three thin strokes each and don’t overload your brush. Less is more as the thinner it’s applied the faster it’ll dry – and without pesky air bubbles too. Thin fast base coat, two coats of colour, then a fine brush of top coat to ‘seal the deal’. Make sure your varnish products aren’t too old. After 18 months most start to go gloopy and the results will be terrible.

Keep a corrector pen or concealer brush, nail varnish remover and tissue to hand in case of mistakes. Once you finish the colour coats, run the tip along the sides to give nice straight lines. Then add the topcoat to seal your handiwork.

Do nothing for 20 minutes!!!! I mean nothing.

Matte nails are super on-trend at the moment. Plum Night by Revlon (£7.13 from Boots) is a gorgeous dark purple that suits all skin tones, and Essie Mint Candy Apple is the jade green the fashion pack are going nuts for right now. This spring go for soft pinks and lilacs.

In the summer months I tend to give my fingernails a rest, let them get lots of Vitamin D from the sunshine and recover from the drying effects of chemicals. In winter when toes are wrapped up for months I trim them down short, remove my otherwise all-year-round nail varnish and oil them 2/3 times a week. Whatever you do, remove the varnish once it becomes chipped to avoid a trailer park look!